Croatia A Country I Keep Returning To
Just a couple of hours from the UK lies Croatia, a country that has pulled me back again and again. From the northern region of Slavonia along the Danube and Drava rivers, where wetlands stretch out for miles, to the wild beauty of Kopački Rit Nature Park often called Europe’s Amazon, Croatia still feels raw and untouched. The floodplains of Lonjsko Polje along the Sava River are another reminder of how much nature the country has protected.
Zagreb, the capital, is a complete shift in pace. Austro-Hungarian buildings line the streets, cafés spill out onto Tkalčićeva, and the Museum of Broken Relationships adds a quirky edge to a city that calls itself the city with a million hearts. It is the kind of place where you wander without a plan and somehow end up with a full day of memories.
Head south and the scenery changes again. Spend a day exploring Plitvice Lakes and you feel like you have stepped into a storybook. Wooden walkways, turquoise water, waterfalls everywhere you look. It is one of those places that stays with you long after you leave.
Further along the coast, you reach Split and then Dubrovnik, the ancient walled city dating back to the 13th century and known worldwide thanks to Game of Thrones. Dramatic, nostalgic and unforgettable. But for me the place that always pulls me back is Cavtat. It is where most of my stories end up and where most of my memories begin. Crystal clear rocky coastlines, stone houses, small Croatian bars, the port filled with super yachts and fishing boats, and sunsets that genuinely feel like the best in the world.
I have been lucky enough to visit with my wife, my family and soon my daughter. Croatia has stolen my heart over and over again. With a population density of around sixty five people per square kilometre the roads are quiet, nature is intact and the old buildings feel like they have been left to age gracefully.
One of the best ways to explore is on a scooter or motorcycle. Ride through the mountains or the national parks and you can smell the clean air and the scent of wild plants. Early June is one of my favourite times to visit. Prices are better and the colours of spring are still hanging on in the landscape. The Balkans do get biblical storms though so expect the occasional dramatic downpour in spring and late summer.
The people are warm and the food is exactly how it should be. Fresh fish, local vegetables and plenty of pizza with Italy just across the water. If you want real culture head inland to a local restaurant often converted from old homes. One of my favourites is Konoba Konavoski Komin in the hills above Cavtat. We rode up at sunset and ate lamb cooked traditionally under the bell while sheep wandered freely around the grounds. It was one of the most memorable meals I have ever had.
For something more dramatic the Panorama restaurant is worth a look. It gets busy and it is not cheap but if you book early and get a table on the edge at sunset it becomes one of the most romantic dinners you will ever have. For a great fish dish or a perfectly cooked pizza Posejdon is another favourite.
My advice with Croatia is simple. Slow down. Just be. The moment you land take it as it comes. A slow ride into town. A cold pint of Ožujsko. A sunrise coffee at Caffe Bar Amor. Hire a boat from the dock and explore the small islands including Lokrum with its botanical gardens and ruins. Or anchor up and take a deep sea swim.
Hotel Cavtat will always be my favourite. It sits right on Tiha Bay and has that perfect balance of calm and convenience. If boats are not your thing take a kayak or walk the coastline stopping at bars as you go. And if hotels are not your style we have a selection of premium rooms, villas and private homes across the area all personally vetted.
Croatia is a place that rewards you for slowing down. It is a country that feels familiar and new at the same time. Every visit gives you something different and every goodbye makes you want to return.
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